On the agenda today was:

• Fit the runner to the seats
• Fit the seats
• Fit the wheels, and take measurements for the front wheel-arch brackets.
• Crimp on the battery leads.

first off fit the wheels. Then use spacers to achieve the tyre to arch clearance.

we had a bit of a task fitting the brackets as the clearances for fitting bolts and nuts is very small. Once the brackets were correctly spaced in accordance to the tyre we used a 25mm piece of wood to rest the arch on to. This gave us our minimum clearance and the best radius around the outside of the tyre.

After marking out the bracket - we began to bend the stay. After heating up the stay to cherry red we began to bend the steel. We repeated this process for both stay's.

Once this was done we again fitted the bracket to check the accuracy of our bends. After a little adjustment all was ready for the brackets to be sent away for plastic coating.

For the drivers seat we decided to fit the MK runners. As the three of us are quite different sizes and shapes it was the only real choice we had.

I must be honest we had a right job getting the runner to fit. The seat runner was fitted on spacers of 14mm supplied with the runners. However, the chassis side of the runner was on a different spacing. So we needed to drill the chassis side runner to suit. Making the operating system work was an art-form in itself. We eventually used an old bicycle spoke to join the lugs. These had to be bent at 90 degrees in opposing positions to achieve the necessary 'pull' to release the catches.

Using the original runners, this was the resulting way we got the seat to operate correctly. The seat could then be fitted into the car. After drilling the chassis seat braces and fitting the spacers the seat could be secured and the harnesses fitted.

3 February 2004

Tonight's agenda:

• Collect plastic coated front arch brackets
• Fit Registration Illumination Unit
• Begin making Rear Light Unit cowls

As the wheel arch stays se were really sanded down and degreased a few days ago. We were hoping the finish was going to be good when we collected them. We were not disappointed as the finish was superior to anything we had seen!

Tape up using masking tape	As it is a good medium for marking out upon	Drill and run wiring through, fit cowl and cover	Stand back to admire

The seats were fitted a few days ago but no pictures as fitted, so here they are. All present and correct and fully operational.

We began manufacture of the cowls with which were are going to use to stand up the rear lights vertical. We have to mount them using a cowl as the back of the light unit will touch the rear wheel and LED's have to be almost vertical to bring the light intensity correct for proper visibility from the rear. This is a long laborious task and as such no pictures are being posted yet...

5 February 2004

Tonight agenda:

• Manufacture and fit transmission tunnel top cover

This was manufactured from a 1000mm x 250mm piece of aluminium. It was bent using a piece of 38mm pipe to obtain the radius we required to match up to the dashboard return. The markings were placed to prepare for drill-sawing to remove the material for the handbrake and also for the gear shaft.

This is what is looks like from the backside with the hole for the gear shaft made.

This is the cover in position, yet to be secured. This is to check for the swing of the brake lever and movement of the gear shaft.

8 February 2004

Our biggest agenda yet is today:

• Fill cooling system
• Start up the engine
• Further manufacture rear light cowls

Off came the snow cone to allow for easier access to the filler cap on the radiator. We flushed through the system using clean warm water, then turned over the engine by hand and drained. Mix the coolant using Ethylene-glycol/De-ionized water at 50-50 concentration. Filled the system again, this was done quite slowly to allow for air to evacuate. Eventually the coolant came through into the expansion tank. We checked for leaks and because there was none, we sealed the system closed.

I then decided to cut out the hole for the Richbrook starter button. This was to be incorporated into the already present starter button circuit.

We also fitted a secondary fuel filter to prevent any rubbish being blown into the engine!!!

All that was left to do was turn the key to position 2 and press the button.

• Attempt 1 - Nothing - not a winge or whirr.

Check isolation circuits, discovered an error with side stand wiring, and corrected.

• Attempt 2 - Nothing

Check feed to fuel pump. NO supply. Bypass fuel pump relay - pump fired but wrong way. So, switch pipes.

• Attempt 3 - Nothing

Strip loom - and check earths. Discovered Green/Red starter return not earthed - earth it!

• Attempt 4 - engine turned, but no fuel pump feed or spark feed.

Called Mr Steve Keenan - Martin Keenan's brother - who kindly offered his help. It was discovered in approximately 30 seconds that whoever had had the engine prior to us had fitted an alarm system and disconnected the main CDI feed.

Connect black with black/white on cut-off relay... check supplies. 12V at black and white black, also 12V at black/white at coils...

• Attempt 5 - engine turned, fuel pumped....
  ...
  ... engine hunted....
  ... engine popped...
  ... engine fired, engine died, engine fired and revved... stopped.... hunted... revved, hunted, revved, revved flames from exhaust... cracked and farted until finally....

SHE LIVES!!!

Hellfire roars to a very load and eruptive birth... We three punch the air with joy as the engine continues to live and breath... Today we witness the birth of months of toil and labour - and what a sound!!!!

10 February 2004

After the excitement of Sunday... we all had hardly stopped smiling, back into the garage with a new found enthusiasm. On the agenda today was:

• Fit Fog Lights
• Fit Rear Lights

We marked out the positioning for the fogs and drilled holes, filed round. Catastrophe ensued, the Fog Unit would not go in due to the petrol tank! So this was decidedly going to be the new reflector position and the Fog located elsewhere. Bugger!
So then we did the same with the Rear Lights - but with no faults this time... we equi-spaced the lights 30mm from both edges and apart this gives enough room when we 'cowl them. The reason for 'cowling' is due to the depth of the Units, it actually touches the rear tyre if left flush with the bodywork. We used a piece of black 4" plastic conduit (used for electrical purposes) left by the side of the road by "Utility Services" although too big we can split and re-weld this.

all marked out and drill sawn... this is for the centre unit of brake light and indicator. After sawing out and filing we could then place the unit and surround for clearance confirmation in relation to the tyre.

both units/surrounds placed - all that needs to be done is a drill hole for the surround tails and tape removing.

tape removed for effect... no to drill rear of arch to facilitate wire routing for connection. We have no 3mm female spades so this will simply have to wait a while.

12 February 2004

As can be seen from the information above...

• the tail-lights (chrome surrounds) are LED the brake and indicators are central. Wiring and fitting to be completed.
• Re-wrapping the wiring loom
• Cut out the position for the indicators

These are the units in place and wired up including the number plate light.

These are the lights switched on but in the light.

These are the lights in darkness... we think they resemble a Ferrari, but who's asking? After all, a Ferrari driver better get used to looking at them...

15 February 2004

More finalising jobs to perform tonight: Rear light surrounds to manufacture. Fog light to position, cut out and wire-up Front mudguard stays to fix. Dad and Ph were busy putting the finishing touches to the cowls when I finally raised my head. Using a piece of piping they cut and formed a toothed mechanism to fix the tube to the correct diameter around the cowl's.

This method was used to securely hold the cowl to the right diameter when in position without the need to use any other form of securing. After cutting the form a radius was generated onto the outside edge to rid the shape of sharp edges.

The cowls were then placed on and a small amount of PU adhesive placed onto the arch to fill in any irregularities and make a water-tight joint to prevent ingress of water. A couple of tie wraps secured the unit until the PU adhesive had set, this will be removed in a couple of days, to make sure they hold in place. The light units were then all wired in permanently and sealed up on the rear.

Next job was to mount the Fog Light. After finding the centre of the panel and checking the rear of the unit for clearance we began cutting out for the unit. As the rear of our panel is 18 degrees from perpendicular the hole for the fog lens is not quite round, but an ellipse. This was reproduced using a tube of equivalent diameter and cutting it so that the tube was horizontal and the rear face of the lens was vertical. This shape was then transposed onto the rear panel. It was cut and filed to shape. A block of wood is used on the rear (again formed to 18 degrees) to provide the unit with something to secure to.

once filed and correct the unit was fixed to the wood and the wood PU glued into position. As the side view shows the lens is vertical - ok for SVA man!

once the fitting was completed, the unit could then be hard wired in so that the Fog Unit comes on when dipped headlights are on. This was all done whilst Dad and Ph reshaped the front mudguard stays - which have yet to be finalised. This is by far the most difficult part of the fabricating as the stays are preferred to fit under the return of the arch, instead of through it to fix directly to the underside. Maybe new ones are on the cards... maybe?

17 February 2004

Agenda tonight was one of frugality as we were a man down. Nevertheless:

• Remove rear light ties
• Position and attach tunnel panel
• Connect and prove indicator circuit
• Connect and prove brake warning fluid/handbrake circuit

With the rear light ties off - they could be seen in the final stage of fit. We are very impressed with them... what do you think?

Due to the tunnel panel having a fine radius on it the positioning of the securing holes was important so that we could hit the chassis. Allowing us to use rivnuts and our stainless bolts to secure. This proved more than a task for Dad as he took most of the night (allowing for his help in advisory capacity!)
The indicators were connected and proved only to find one of the front bulbs was faulty, though to look at it, it was perfect - the timing in operation was ok.
The brake warning circuit was a bit of a testicle ache as the wires which went to the brake reservoir were playing up. I had to disconnect and reconnect these in a different configuration to how I had initially done it. All proved ok when the fluid is low the warning light triggers, and when the handbrake is pulled it triggers too.
We also are altering the light colour of our dashboard to red, this has its own problems involving some high temperature laquer and cooking some bulbs!!! Will show photo's when they're done!

22 February 2004

• Fit Prop Tunnel Cover
• Fit clocks into dash
• Complete Hazard Light Wiring
• Start engine to obtain video of sight and sound

Things did not quite go to plan today. Whilst I was fitting wiring for hazard lights, Dad was preparing for securing prop tunnel cover. Unfortunately, the hazard circuit diagram didn't come with the relays/switches and without these I was well and truly stuck. As it happens the prop tunnel cover was made to be fitted with 4mm rivnuts. However, trying to secure the rivnuts we discovered that the section was too thick to support the small rivnuts. We prepared to re-drill to suit 5mm rivnuts which we know is suitable, but we have no mandrel for the 5mm rivnuts or bolts. So we drew a blank here.
Our attempt at starting the engine resulted in turnover after turnover of the engine, finally after flooding and flooding and cleaning spark plugs I decided enough was enough. As we had another set of new plugs, we replaced the wet ones with the new one's. Started first time! Checked the plug gap on the old one's which was much too wide. So now we have sound and sight of our car. This will be posted at a later date after editing!

So now we decided to use whatever time we had left to fasten the clocks into the dash. We initially decided to use surrounding screws to secure. However, when we thought about it a little more, we discovered that although the clocks were secure, no way would we be able to remove them. So, we came up with the idea that we would use the original securing lugs. We would have to adapt some brackets which secured to the back of the dash which would be unseen from the front. We manufactured aluminium sheets to slot between the clocks which were identical.

Using a coach bolt we would drill one to take the head the other to take the square. This could then be stuck onto the dash using PU adhesive, then using nuts to hold the clocks in place. This is the result.

We are quite happy with what we have achieved today despite having a few fallbacks, we are on the way to finalizing the dash.

Fitted connectors to brake warning light for low fluid and handbrake on signal. Fitted connectors to starter button.

24 February 2004

The agenda for tonight:

• Secure clocks into dashboard
• Secure prop tunnel cover
• Fit seats and harnesses

Once the holes were drilled on the top cover it was fitted onto the tunnel and marked through the holes. These holes were then to be drilled larger to accommodate the rivnuts which were going to be used for the stainless steel cap-head bolts.

it was quite easy to strip the rivnut threads using this way of insertion. Nevertheless we did it in the end.

Once on we used large head washers to spread the load and keep in custom with the rest of the internal securing's.

also this evening we fitted the brackets to the rear of the dashboard using PU adhesive. This is to use the original mounting brackets from the bike.

All completed - we could now fit the seats and harness permanently.

26 February 2004

Finally managed to succeed wiring the Hazard Circuit... as it is a totally stand alone system it was not a plug and unplug system. However, it is in now and working satisfactorily! Click on the image to download the circuit diagram... please sign our Guestbook to show your appreciation.

29 February 2004

The agenda for this evening is:

• Fit Dash to scuttle
• Mount clocks into dash

After leveling the dash to the chassis, we marked out and drilled the holes (100mm apart) to accept 5mm x 15mm countersink bolts. This secured the aluminium to the scuttle.

We wanted to put the dash behind the scuttle as we have a novel plan to finish off the surface of the dash.

We then proceeded to secure the clocks to the rear of the dash, using the previously secured bolts.

once lined up and adjusted for protrusion through the dash we could secure it all up.

All secured in...