April

Rebuild

	Saturday 2nd Well here we are in April already! Weather is gradually becoming warmer and who would have thought we would have been rebuilding so soon after finishing? To be honest we did, not under the same circumstances but there you go. Today we are travelling some 550 miles to collect our wheels from Darvel in Scotland, cheap to post but not as cheap as to drive with company provided fuel. We bought the set of wheels from Steve Turner Auto Designs. (TAD-LTD on www.locostbuilders.co.uk) they are Compomotive CXR and are one of the lightest wheels available. They are also very attractive! In the size we have (15x7J) they weigh around 6Kg. They are shod with Toyo Proxes R888 and ready for the road. No other place in the UK could source these wheels at such a competitive price. It also allowed us to have a look at Steve's LMP Racer complete with ZX12R engine... what was left of it! Gaining information and knowledge along the way. Great bloke, great service thanks!
	Sunday 3rd
	So here I am again re-wiring - but not just any wiring... ZX wiring which means loads more wires and loads more problems. Great fun...!
	Things on the hit list today are: Header tank Wiring Fuel Tank
		Header tank needed positioning. It is slightly higher than the blade engined MK due to the ZX engine being taller. So off we set manufacturing taller brackets from 25x3mm plate. This time we are using 3 locating points due to the weight of the tank when fully loaded with water. The old one was always a little flimsy...
		Fuel tank - after cutting out the bottom of the tank to suit the inner shape of the pump we then had the swirl pot and sender base welded to the tank in position. Using the original pump and adapted sender we have been able to fully utilise the original equipment from the bike and maintain all of the functionality. We have also had a breather tube welded in.
	Wiring - as the ZX has literally hundreds of wires... this is taking a little longer than the blade but longer than expected :) Most of the engine loom has been stripped out to allow for re-routing... this has really opened up the engine making things easier to see and to work on if needed. Most of the wiring has been reduced or lengthened whichever I need to run the wiring out of the way.
	Tuesday 5th
	The wiring is almost nearing completion now... simply a little cutting/splicing to length and this will complete the engine loom. A starter button and a little help with the ignition system security is needed prior to starting.
		Straps have been made to secure the tank... rivnuts have been secured into the chassis and rubber has been placed on all area's coming into contact with the tank. The sender and pump have been secured into the tank and all is in place and ready.
	Most of the wiring has been traced back to source and re-routed. This very handily opens up the engine bay exposing many of the components plus it just looks neater.
		These are the blanking plates in position and lacquered up.
	This is a view of the tank from the rear...you can see the swirl pot and pump from this position but due to it's shape and location is kind-of look the part....
	Thursday 7th
	Tonight is a bit of a milestone for us, as we are beginning to place body panels. As this will be (hopefully) the same as last time... the process should be pretty quick and easier than it was the first time.
		On went the side panels following a bit of rubbing down with a flat file. We used friction clamps to temporarily hold down the panels. This should enable us to line up the scuttle and bonnet. Unfortunately the scuttle when in position fouled the electrics panel... this will need to be rectified before final fitting.
		As can be seen - the electrics tray drops down very nicely on it's hinge as it was intended to do. One side of the chassis/side panels appears to be slightly different from the other. Not much and it is hidden so it is of little consequence. Almost all of the engine loom is complete - I just have to sort the ignition connections to the Sierra barrel.
		We thought we would have a look at our new wheels. Lightweight 15" Compomotive CXR, the wheel alone weighs less than 7Kg. We have had fitted some Toyo Proxes R888 kind of a semi-slick tyre. Through the wheel you can easily see the coloured disc's and calipers.
		When tyre'd up, the weight increases to 15Kg/wheel. The previous wheel/tyre combination weighed in at 18Kg. This has saved us almost 2 stones in weight (12Kg) this gives not only a lighter car but should give us a better more accurate feedback on handling. The R888 tyre is a sticky road/track tyre. This increases weight due to the stronger sidewalls apparently... the overall diameter is very similar to the 16" low profiles we had on previously. This is solely due to the increase profile of the tyre.
	Sunday 10th
	So... on to this afternoon. Things are really beginning to come together, we can (sort of) see the light! Today we have again plenty to do: Fit the filling pipe and cap Begin to plumb in the cooling pipes
		Yes, yes we know... copper is heavier than aluminium. However, aluminium won't braze or solder, so we decided to use copper pipe. The ZX12Rs' pipe diameter is 30mm also, which is comparable to our 28mm domestic central heating pipe. We have decided to use this above other things as it allows us to work with it the easiest.
	Armed with a blow-torch, some 15mm and 28mm connectors we began the task of plumbing up. This section of the piping is the feed from the lower return pipe of the micra-rad past the oil cooler; where it is tee'd; then around and up to the water pump. It has to be raised above the suspension brackets but this will be later.
	I was; as usual; wiring up. Fog light(s) and high level brake light all done.
		This is the fuel filler cap and related pipes all plumbed in. We had to drill the breather with a 1.5mm drill to allow for expansion/contraction of the fuel.
	Tuesday 12th
	Unfortunately I was 'entertaining' tonight; therefore I could not attend the "Chapel". Still, it was an exceedingly nice curry! The only thing I noticed different was the starting of the new dashboard - (many thanks to Carl for the material supply)
	Thursday 14th
	Tonight was a race against time. A race to complete the copper piping. We also had to plumb up the top micra-rad from the water pump, via the expansion tank. Once both pipes were complete we then tried to get them all powder coated. unfortunately they were closed... well, it was 9pm! Always tomorrow though! :)
		That's the lower pipe completed too... and this is where the upper pipe fits... nice and snug!
	I also managed to bypass the Kawasaki security system tonight - Therefore the ignition and starting circuitry is now complete. All that is required for the fire-up are the main leads. To starter and to earth. Jobs done. All that is really remaining to sort out is the Hazard wiring. As this has been done before I am attempting to utilise the original Kawasaki relay/flasher unit. It may burn out but it may not? I have a spare from the 'blade so nothing ventured... Hopefully we helped to sort out MKBlades' gearbox... by the time this reaches the internet it should have been done... just to let you know though!!!
	Saturday 16th/Sunday 17th
	Air filter arrived today - an I.T.G. number so as it goes below the bonnet bulge unmodified (we hope). Visit to Hose Direct for some Fuel pipe and hose end connectors. Also some 28mm rubber piping so that we can connect the metal engine pipes to our plumbing. Also a visit to "Just Blades" for a look around at exhaust race cans and such - despite the stock there was nothing much which appealed and it was all "Mega-expensive"... Day off today - Phil gone to watch Newcastle V Man U - I'm decorating the bathroom (still!)
	Tuesday 19th
		All the plumbing pipes are back from the powder coaters - al nice and shiny black. Now they are ready for fitting into place... long one is from rear of engine to lower radiator return connector with T to feed oil cooler. Short one is from top of engine to top radiator connector with feed from expansion tank "T".
	Here is the top pipe in position from engine outlet to top radiator connector with a T in place to feed the system from the expansion tank...
		This pipe is to the pump from oil cooler/lower radiator return.
	This is the lower pipe in position all mounted into place. You can see the T which also feeds the bike engine oil cooler.
		The air filter arrived... mmmm! Velly, velly nice.... as requested it has been delivered with a blank base plate for us to cut out and position as required. We asked for a smaller than usual one for us to squeeze under a standard bonnet with bulge - time will tell!
	So - off we go with marking out. First things first find centre of template. Mark out the centres of the throttle bodies (90mm) and centre punch. Scribe a 58mm circle... this allows for the 55mm diameter sliding fit tubes and the stop collar which is 57.5mm diameter. Cut out very accurately with a jigsaw... and de-burr plate.
		Like this... when the throttle tubes are in place.. position the bolting flanges in such a way as to allow the inlet air temperature sensor to be mounted between the middle two throttle tubes. Also position to allow the filter to fit over the end tube bolting flanges. Mark out and drill and de-burr.
	Fit the throttle tubes into position on the plate and offer up to throttle bodies. Slide into position and secure. Connect sensor in to position.
		All secure and in position...
	This is the complete filter fitted.
		In the spare time we had - we also mounted the ECU. It was positioned here so we can easily feed the Power Commander into series with little messing about...
	Wednesday 20th
	Tonight was a little unplanned as we are not supposed to be in the chapel tomorrow (as usual), so tonight has been brought forward.
	Tonight I concentrated on fitting inlet pressure sensor... whilst the other two concentrated on fitting the fuel pipes. Manufactured a plate which I fixed to the stabilising bar which runs from throttle body to throttle body. I bent the plate about 15 degrees to aid clearance from the throttle cams and to allow the inlet pressure pipe not to kink or foul.
		Once in position it was merely a case of securing the sensor to it. and connecting the pre-lengthened wires to it.
	Whilst this was being done the fuel lines were going in... using braided stainless hose we connected the copper fuel pipe to the fuel pump securing with stainless jubilee clips. The front line was different as we like to make a neat job... we decided to terminate the copper more into the tunnel than before. We then ran a long braided to the fuel inlet bar.
		This picture is of the completed run-path... just needs securing into position then it's complete. Firing up day is getting very close now... :)
	Sunday 24th
	Today was going to be a busy day for all three of us as we have planned to do an "all day-er". However, this wasn't to be as I had other more pressing family matters to tend to. So, Phil and Dad were busy for most of the day... By the time I arrived at the "Chapel of Garage" a load of work had already been completed.
	Most of the rubber plumbing work was completed. All nicely jubilee clipped into place.
		Dad had gotten hold of a nice angled bit of pipe which fitted onto the oil cooler pipe and "T" on the bottom rail... some home-made P-Clips made the plumbing in this area very sturdy.
		A large piece of hydraulic hose slightly deformed around the chassis member made the lower radiator connection. A piece of large plumbing and a hole in the heat sink (and edging to finish) made a nice job of the top connection.
	Connecting up the braided fuel pipes almost makes the whole wiring, plumbing and fitting able to see the engine started. All that needs doing to complete is wiring the heavy duty starter cable. This was one of my next jobs anyway... so away I went...
		Connecting up the starter motor feed (+) routing the wire along the engine casing towards the front of the bay where the battery resides. This cable is connected to the side of the battery tray due to a pack of relays and fuses in the battery housing. Take the earth strap from the negative terminal of the battery to the engine casing and a smaller wire to the chassis to cross bond both engine and chassis. Connected up the block connector near the battery housing this completes the engine loom and now the engine is ready to turn over (I hope!). Need the dash starting, for me to mount the push starter button to put it all to the test!
	Once I'd completed the wiring, I set about cutting out the aluminium side panels... these are pre-cut but not to any accurate sizing as it needs to be trimmed to suit. This will be secured using PU adhesive at a later date. Not forgetting the harness bolt holes... complete one side run a 9.5mm drill through the harness securing point bore and mark the opposite panel and drill... repeat on the other side.
		Most jobs for tonight are now complete - so securing the throttle cable to the nearest secure point allowing for a smooth flow with little small radii made the job nice. The throttle cable runs nicely underneath the heat sink... this was secured using P-Clips.
	We loaned a bonnet with integral power bulge from Tony S... and offered it onto the scuttle panel to discover whether we needed a separate bulge instead of the integral type. If the engine would have been 1" further back, the bonnet would have fitted perfectly... although this could have been done at the time, we have to use the separate bonnet bulge now. Not that it is a problem as we have purchased this part anyway.
	Tuesday 26th
	So onto this evening... dashboard to mark out and to manufacture.
	So, mark out cut lines... using old dash as a template minus the clocks as these will be new from the zx12r bike.
		Then mark out for clocks, switches and brake warning light.
	Cut out profile using jigsaw... bit of parafin/penetrating oil to prevent pickup and clogging of the blade. We used a thin profiling blade to make sure we got around the corners.
		Once the bottom edges were cut we positioned the 40mm tube at the bending point and drilled and riveted on the outer perimeters... we intentionally left the bottom long for this purpose. Here you can see the tube riveted onto the panel and g-clamped to the table.
	We then bent the panel to 90 degrees giving us the angle we require. Repeat the process on the other side...
		until you end up with this... then all that is to do for the profile is to rough trim the edges for the lower tunnel panel securing.
	Off we went again... time was getting on... the masking tape was to prevent scratches and to provide a better line for following...
		Then you have completed the fabrication as so... all the marks are still there for the clocks which will be continued on Thursday....
	Thursday 28th
	Dashboard night again tonight - following on from Tuesday. Cutting out the material for the steering column using the jigsaw as it can cut nicely around the curves.
		Following the steering column cut-out comes the most difficult part... cutting out for the clocks to show through. After drilling 8mm diameter hole I used the trusty jigsaw to rough out the diameter. As we used a template to draw out the clocks I could afford to go near to the edges thereby leaving a minimal amount to file out.
	After the clock holes were out - I then cut out the hazard/fog light switch positions
		I then filed the holes to suit the clocks... then I had to drill smaller holes for the odometer/trip reset buttons and the various warning lights ie indicators, main beam, fog light and finally the starter button.
	The clocks all finished fitted better than the blade clocks in the previous dash...
		So... with all the holes carefully filed out and fitted, they eventually looked like this.
	Completed and fitted in are also the starter button and brake warning lights.